BULAK IMALAN

KAPAMPANGAN'S LOST ART OF WEAVING CLOTH
Ancient Kapampangan Cotton Fashion

By Joel Pabustan Mallari

In an archaeological survey in Candaba sometime in 2002, several artifacts were recovered evidencing an ancient rich culture which includes weaving as supported by the presence of earthen spindle whorls associated to the so-called “Metal Age” (500 BC AD 500) of the Philippines. In an ordinance issued in Manila during the time of Gómez Pérez Dasmariñas dated on the 9th of April 1591, the so called Indians referring to the native inhabitants of the Philippines were forbidden to wear Chinese stuff. Among these stuffs presumably include the famous trade silk. It is on this same account that all the Kapampangans already wore cotton – “chiefs, timaguas [sic] and slaves without distinction of rank”- William Henry Scott. He further comments that “though it was not grown locally; it was acquired raw from provinces from the south in exchange for rice and gold.” Indeed these Kapampangans were not only rich with these resources but also wove cotton fabric John Larkin noted in his book “The Pampangans”. This old tradition of cotton weaving was also recorded by Fray Diego Bergano in 1732 by the following entries:

BULAC, a bush and the fruit it bears, are both called bulac, cotton. But with the distinction, there is a bigger tree, and its produce can be used only for mattresses and cushions and it is called bulac castila (kapok?) So it is customary to add to the produce of the bush, bulac susuldan or pagpaguin. Other forms: Manimulac, the cloth made of cotton becomes threadbare for being worn out; maguinbulac, becomes very very white…;

CABID, a certain measure of cotton for spinning: four threads makes a cauing, four cauings make a cabid; ten cabids make one tul, which is one skein;

LAMBAL, the thread for sewing silk, or cotton. Active verb and its constructions, to make or cut a length of thread from the spool. P. 3. the spool, or skein. Calambalan, one length of thread for the needle. Pa, palambal, to provide a needle with a length of thread. P. 1. the thread. P. 3. that which is to be sewn with such a thread, like a baro, dress;

LULUN, to roll up, like the reed-mat / palm-mat beddings. P. 1. that which is rolled up, Lilun. Maca, presently rolled up…Lulunán, nominative, said in a wider sense, of the freshness, or tenderness of the labong, the stick around which they roll up /twine the raw cotton;

PUYUD, a bundle of cotton on the distaff, ready for weaving, or spinning;

SALAB, to bring near to the flames, to dry, or to singe, or scorch, like pork; or to give a bent shape to a piece of bamboo; or to apply the flame to a bundle of flax or hemp/cotton…;

SULAD, the fashion, the finish, the spun; to spin; the spun, or on behalf of whom. Sildan, or, silaran, or, sinulad, (that is what they call the cotton that is spun into thread…;

TUBAL, to soak the raw cotton before dyeing;

TUL, ten cabigs equal one Tul, a measure of raw cotton bales. If you want more, inquire from a woman spinner, spinster;

These entries indicate a complex industry which is not limited to household consumption but for a wider market. While a blue colored cotton was seen common to Kapampangans as it was explained in an entry “sapat”, which Fr. Bergano assumed as “it is used to mean steeping, or soaking raw cotton to dye it blue / in blue dye”. This color might have been a native favorite as what was documented in Jean Mallat’s work which was one of the rarest of all 19th century French publications containing Philippine illustrated material. He further noted that “in Pampanga they make cloths of all kinds, pots of baked clay which are taken to Manila and in the environs of the bay…”